I Really Like A Lot Of Places
Traveling America
I have had the good fortune over the years of seeing a lot of America firsthand and up close.
Where we currently live is our 26th relocation, so we have lived in many places. We have taken two cross country drives, each about a month long, over the years, exploring the out of the way and the well-known parts of this country. I also had several years of business travel domestically that ranged from Alaska to Florida and about every state in between. I think we have missed only 1-2 states so far.
Out of all those travels, I found that there are a number of cities that seemed to have very distinct personalities. These are places I enjoyed the most. Oftentimes, cities seem almost interchangeable, whether they be domestic or international.
At one point I was travelling so much that I found it helpful to leave myself a note on my nightstand saying where I was. It is unsettling to wake up at 2 AM and wonder where the heck you are. Nice to find a note that says, “You are in Bulgaria.”
But some places have a real sense of place and those stuck with me. Some are large and well known, others less so but still distinctive in very different ways. So, let’s take a tour and see where we enjoyed our country most in terms of cities (we may do this again later in terms of natural surroundings).
WEST
Santa Fe, NM – Probably one of the most picturesque townships on planet Earth. A beautiful blend of mountains and architecture, a place that seemed to us dominated by the arts. The architecture of the cityscape reflected that and blended beautifully with the natural terrain. We first arrived on a cool winter day, with a gentle snow lightly blanketing everything and the smell of wood fires everywhere. Decades later, I still remember the sight and aroma of Santa Fe.
Portland, OR – A seriously cool place in many ways. In fact, I often refer to America’s arc of coolness, which runs from Asheville NC, through Austin, TX, up to Portland, OR. Friendly people, great local beers, serious dining scene, the best overall public transit system I have seen.
Carmel, CA – We had the great pleasure of living in Carmel for a couple of years, plus most of another year just down the road in Monterey. Lovely valleys and low mountains, pristine beaches, lovely forests. The architecture in and around the town blend in perfectly. A very sophisticated yet down-home sort of place. Real respect for nature. If you want to cut down a tree, even on your own property you need a permission that is on the order of a papal degree in terms of frequency and challenging to obtain.
MIDWEST
Kansas City, MO- A fine downtown area, well integrated with the river (which does flood out everything from time to time). A place built in earlier days around the beef industry and so still a place to find serious steak houses. Overall, not too urbanized, lots of green space and walking areas, lots of interesting, locally based shopping.
Houston, TX– Yeah, I know – they consider themselves Western, but the map looks more midwest to me. We lived closer to Dallas-Ft Worth for about two years but found Houston the more enjoyable area. A bit more laid back than those other two cities and a very pronounced, well integrated arts community. Yet another place that tends to flood with depressing regularity. Still, a very civilized, well developed city. If only it was in another state, we might go back for a visit.
Cleveland, OH – Three things lead to Cleveland’s inclusion on this list. One, it has a fascinating history of immigrant communities. This is a place with tons of interesting traditions, food, culture. Two, this is one of America’s leading cities for medical research and care, especially for the heart. Three – and maybe most important – Cleveland hosts the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. Have visited the Hall more than once, glad to go back anytime. Last time I checked, they still had too little space devoted to Janis Joplin (should be an entire floor…), but overall, what a great experience.
Chicago, IL– OK, everyone knows this one. Biggest city on this list. Carl Sandburg called Chicago “the city of big shoulders.” He was right, and that sounds better than its other nicknames, the Second City and the Windy City. The city feels even bigger and stronger than it is in reality. Lots of great ethnic history, serious dining (beef is king, followed by sausage, I think), great art and historical museums, lots of nice parks and waterfront areas.
EAST
Pittsburgh, PA – Probably the best example of a city that reinvented itself. Pittsburg was, for several years, the archetypical Rust Belt City, full of decay and closed steel plants. Over the years, it has become almost a model city, with economic diversity, great neighborhoods and shopping areas, strong sports traditions, a better than average airport, and more. Well done, Pittsburg.
Baltimore, MD– Baltimore beat the odds on several projects that make it a great city. They created arguably the best baseball park in America, one modeled on the old days, but full of modern features. It has been copied all over the country. Not far down the road, they built a pretty neat football stadium. Both of these are connected to the harbor area, which is also lively with many good stops and lots of local transportation options. Also nearby is one of the nation’s best aquariums. And for my money, Baltimore has one of the best, if not the best, Little Italy neighborhoods in the country. Never had a bad meal anywhere there.
SOUTH
Columbus, GA– When I first encountered Columbus, it was a typical Army base town of the 1960’s and 70’s. A large Army base, full of young soldiers, was a dominant economic factor. There was no shortage of bars, pawn shops, and used car lots, all eager to help young soldiers part with their money. We stopped by just a few years ago and were delighted to see both the Army base and the community had changed for the better. The base was much more complex, with more schools, specialty units, and a world-class museum. The city had much further developed its river front area, had seen lots of restoration work in its historic neighborhoods, and had grown a fine crop of excellent restaurants and shops. Overall, a delightful community. Now if they could only solve the heat and humidity of Summers there.
Charlottesville, VA– I have spent very little time in Charlottesville, but was impressed with what I saw. Beautiful surrounding countryside, fine educational institutions, first rate dining, a long history with the culture of horse country, and more. It offered a lot for a city of its size. Look forward to going back sometime and exploring more.
Asheville, NC– Our current hometown. As mentioned earlier, we have lived in over two dozen communities. This one felt like coming home almost immediately. It is a city that has reinvented itself several times. Oringially founded as a crossroads for moving livestock, then a haven for healthy living and fresh air around the turn of the century. It became a center for great architects and landscapers, whose work still exists. The community crashed in the Great Depression and never really recovered thereafter. By the early 1970’s, downtown was a derelict ghost town; plans were announced to level it all, over 16 square blocks and rebuild as a “modern” city.
Local citizen groups refused to let all that great architecture be destroyed and efforts began to attract artists and more. In due course, the city was revived, arts are everywhere, as are a mass of breweries, distilleries, a strong culture, an amazing number of great restaurants, and scenery that takes your breath away in every direction. We all thank our lucky stars for being here every day.
How About You?
This is actually only about half of mine, but it’s a good start. Perhaps one of more of these are calling to you to visit them now. Makes me wonder what other great places I have yet to discover.
What places make your list?
See you next week.
Bill Clontz
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